Wanderlust – Andalusia Region of Spain Parte Dos – Malaga, Costa del Sol, Mijas Pueblo, Granada, & Ronda

Spain is such a remarkably beautiful country, and Andalusia is a stunning region.  From its metropolis of Madrid to its Pueblos Blancos (whitewashed villages) that dot the rugged landscape, Andalusia will charm any traveler.

My husband and I have been lucky enough to be in the region twice now.  In Part 1  of my blog about this region, I introduced readers to our experiences in Madrid, Toledo, Córdoba and Seville, the route we had traveled on our first trip.  This time I will start where our 2nd trip began, in Costa del Sol.  Cue entrancing Spanish guitar music…

Málaga

According to the official tourist site, Málaga boasts the rights to the 5th largest city in Spain.  Who knew?  We didn’t…in fact, we had never heard of Málaga until we arranged to fly into Costa del Sol via the Málaga airport.  Well, we certainly know it now.  We know it’s art culture, its food culture, its flamenco culture. But wait, that is wrong…we do not “know” it yet.  We may need to return many times to fully appreciate its richness.  And we are just the couple that is up to that task!

Art of the Walk: Walking through the streets of the old town, you can find many examples of modern art. From the engaging graffiti street art, to the interesting buildings, Málaga is a cosmopolitan city. When we were visiting, they were having a Henry Moore exhibit featuring large stone sculptures that were juxtaposed beside ancient buildings and roman ruins.  The contrast was illuminated during our evening tour.  Next time we visit, I expect there will be other treasures to explore.

Foodie Fun: If you want to explore Málaga through food, find this guy…Paco, from We Love Málaga Tours. We were lucky enough to have Paco guide us on both of our tours with this company.  We started our first day with the Walk and Taste Tour as a way to familiarize ourselves with the city. We quickly knew we were in for a treat when our first stop was for chocolate and churros at the Casa Aranda. Yum. We were then introduced to the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, the place where people come to shop for fresh fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, cheese.  In addition to enjoying the marvelous and colorful food displays, people come to drink coffee, to people watch, and to socialize.  Definitely not your typical American grocery store.

A couple of days later, we again joined Paco for a fabulous evening of fun, food, and frivolity with the Walk and Tapas Tour. The food stops were plentiful as was the wine. It was a beautiful evening filled with laughter.

Cultural Entertainment:  After the tour we hung out with new found tour-friends from Liverpool. That happens often when one travels…you meet new people and start quick friendships. We stopped for one more glass of wine at a corner restaurant that still appeared to be open, the Milonga El Jardín.

Once seated with wine in hand, live music started and out came flamenco dancers.  What a surprise…what a joy.

Again, my biggest tip for Málaga…find Paco!  You will learn much, and enjoy more.

Costa del Sol

There are multiple communities that dot the coastline between Málaga and Gibraltar.  The beaches are gorgeous, the sunshine sublime.  You might try the seaside resort of Torremolinos.  We did.  Cold cerveza on the beach is the go-to experience. On the beaches you will find lots of places for food, and there is always someone coming around offering a massage. Now, we have recently been told that getting a massage by one of the beach combers is definitely not a good idea.  We did not know that at the time, and had one of the best massages we had ever had.  So, who knows?

Exercise and shopping all in one trip: Ask someone how to get to the Calle San Miguel from the beaches and you will be directed to a steep set of steps that wind up the hill to this charming and bustling street of shops.  Great leg workout.  Great pocketbook workout.

Food for thought:  My one food tip for Torremolinos and Costa del Sol is to follow up your beach day with fresh sardines roasted over an open fire at a beach-side cafe.  Served with a bit of sea salt and a lime wedge, these are not your grandfather’s sardines!

Mijas Pueblo

I mentioned earlier about the Pueblos Blancos, whitewashed villages in Andalusia.  Well let me introduce you to Mijas Pueblo, the village where I could retire.  Upon seeing my face looking out towards from the bluff that houses this wonderful town, my sister dubbed it “Mimi’s Happy Place”. The crispness of the white buildings, contrasted with the bright floral arrangements and terra cotta embellishments, gives the area its charm. We walked everywhere, but the most distinctive method of travel is the donkey taxi.  I can see the attraction to this mode of travel, because Mijas Pueblo has fairly steep and narrow streets.  It also has many artisans…ceramics, leather, jewelry. A shopper’s mecca.

Religious relics: Off the main street, you are sure to see an ancient mission style church on the bluff.  This is the  Grotto of the Virgin de la Pena.  According to legend, in 1536 the Virgin Mary appeared to two children.  She instructed them to tell their parents to remove her from the rock where she had been entombed for 500 years.  The father went to the top and began excavating the rock where he later found a statue of the virgin.  Now, with a story like that, you just have to visit it!  It is well worth your time.

For the foodie: Arrive later in the day with a reservation for La Alcazaba de Mijas.  We found the food and service to be excellent. But the real appeal was the remarkable view.  After dinner, stroll through the streets in the cool evening. With soft lights illuminating your way, your evening will be magical.  Ours was. Yes, this is my happy place.

Granada

On our first visit to Spain, we ditched the tour group and stayed in Seville. Our tour mates all admonished us that we should have joined them in Granada to see the Alhambra. We needed something to do the next time we came, we told them.  So…the next time we came…we did!

Granada is another beautiful Spanish city located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.  The drive up was breathtaking due to the landscape that was both rugged and lush.  We came for the Alhambra tour, but the old town was entrancing…the town square was ripe for people-watching, the Moorish market with narrow passages was delightful. I do not think we spent enough time in this winsome hamlet.  I would like to explore more of it…next time, next time.

Touristy but “So what?”: Yes, this tourist homage to the mind-blowing architecture of the ancient Moors is way too crowded.  Yes, there are long queues for tickets, for tours, for food.  And yes…go to the Alhambra.

The Alcazaba, or the fortress, is the oldest part of the expansive compound.  There are also a few towers, courtyards, and beautiful gardens. What makes the Alhambra so incredible is its intricate designs made of tile, carved wood, inlaid wood, and metal.  You look up to the ceilings and you see galaxies of stars designed from colorful materials.  Everywhere you look you will be awestruck at the artistry, effort and time it must have taken to craft the walls, the ceilings, the fountains, the floors, the doors!  And while you are there, do not miss the Generalife summer palace and gardens.  So pretty.

The next time we are in Granada, and there will be a next time, we might consider paying a premium rate for a private 3-hour evening tour.

Ronda

As a day trip from Costa del Sol, we decided to visit the mountain town of Ronda.  We had heard about the area’s magnificent 100 meter gorge that split the city in half, so we needed to see THAT!

Surprise of the Trip: It was a beautiful sunny day to start our exploration. We arrived on a Sunday, May 10th.  The area seemed sleepy, and we wondered if we should not have come on a Sunday.  While walking up a city street we heard a bustling crowd and distant music.  When we approached the intersection, we could see a parade was happening.  Unbeknownst to us, we were joining a group of revelers in their annual Procession of Our Lady of Peace,  in honor of the Virgin Mary, Ronda’s Patron Saint. It was Mother’s Day for us..it was the Blessed Mother’s Day for them. Wow, it appeared the whole town took part in the parade, the men in their best suits, the women in their fanciest peinetas (large decorative combs) and mantillas (lace head scarves). The children were also involved, many donning altar boy and girl golden vestments.  The showcase of the parade was the procession of the statue of the Virgin Mary.  I counted over 50 men slowly, painstakingly, swaying to and fro, moving the large platform with the statue. Quite the solemn procession…well maybe not so solemn as evidenced by the man who stuck his tongue out at the videographer  – me! We greatly enjoyed this unplanned and fortuitous event.  These are the moments that make traveling so worthwhile.  You get ensconced in another culture, and your world view becomes broader.

A dining room with a view: You’re there already, why not spend some time with that remarkable view?  Have dinner, lunch, whatever, at Don Miguel Restaurant.  Make sure to ask for patio seating, have your camera ready, and be prepared to be wowed. The Puente Nuevo bridge is so close you might think you can touch it (please don’t try) and the El Tajo chasm is astounding!

Ah Andalusia.  What riches you share so freely.  There is so much to this beautiful region…too much to chronicle here.  Stroll through Cadiz and sit at an outside cafe as you enjoy a Cruz Campo while listening to Spanish guitar in front of the cathedral. Stop by Gibraltar for a step into the United Kingdom, visit the coastal towns of Fuengirola, Marbella, and Mijas Costa.

Next time we go, it is off to Jerz, Nerja, Almeria…who knows what  surprises we will find.  Can’t wait!

Please share your own explorations of Andalusia.

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