Wanderlust – Andalusia Region of Spain Parte Uno – Madrid, Toledo, Córdoba, and Seville

Over the course of the last several years, my husband and I have developed a new…albeit expensive…hobby. TRAVEL. In five years, we have visited more than 60 cities, towns, and villages in six European countries. I collect them like my grandson collects Pokémon cards.

He spends hours placing his cards in plastic sleeves; I spend hours going through the thousands of pictures I have amassed. Thanks to smart phones, I am not limited by the cost of film and developing, thank heavens!  The phone is attached to me with an elastic strap as I walk so that I can capture all the glory that comes with traveling. I relive every trip as I painstakingly pour over each shot and decide what will go in the printed album. I have become a pro with online albums programs. There are many options, but my choice is Mixbook.com.

With this new blog section – Wanderlust, I will revisit some of our favorite spots and give a few tips that worked for us. I hope you will take the time to share your experiences and memories of these unique destinations.

Our most favorite travel locale, so far, has to be beautiful Spain. It was our very first European destination, but we have returned two more times.

In every city or town we have visited, we have been charmed by the people, the culture, and the beauty. And we have had wonderful surprises. Here are my humble tips for some of my favorite Spanish locations:

Madrid

While Madrid is not within the Andalusian region of Spain, it is where we started our journey of exploration. Only in Madrid for a short 1 1/2 days, we were taken with the its cosmopolitan nature. My husband and I instantly felt comfortable. After a long international flight and a short jet-lag fighting nap, we were ready to explore the downtown streets.  The first thing that we noticed was how very clean it was.  On the bright beautiful evening, the streets sparkled.

My three suggestions for must-dos in Madrid have to be:

Art of the Walk: Museo de Prado – a beautiful way to spend the afternoon. The Goya collection was the highlight for us. Outside, the street performers kept us entertained.

A day in the life: Playa Mayor – Madrid comes alive in the late evening in the Playa Mayor.  This large open square is teeming with people enjoying seeing and being seen.  Hanging with the Spaniards in Playa Mayor was the best way for us to experience Madrid in our short stint there.

Foodie fun: Chocolateria San Gines  – Find this wonderful shop and you will be whisked away to chocolate heaven with a mug of steaming thick chocolate and a plate of fresh churros to dip into the confection. PHENOMENAL!

Andalusia Region

Located in Southern Spain, Andalusia has seen it all – Neanderthals, Phoenicians, Celts, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Christians, Jews, and…tourists! Their architecture, beliefs, and cultural history capture remnants of all. The Moors were here for eight hundred years and left an ongoing legacy of amazing architecture that permeates the region.

There are many amazing districts within Andalusia, of which we have only seen a few!

Toledo

When we first laid eyes on Toledo, we were overwhelmed by its presence. The terracotta colored rooftops of the tan and white buildings curling up the bluff towards the cathedral took our breath away. Walking through the narrow curving cobblestone streets steeped us in ancient history.  I began to regret my inattention in Junior High School to my foundational subjects of World History and Geography. Oh, what I would have given to page through the chapter about the Moors, Christians, and Jews in Andalusia. Exploring history alone should lead you to Toledo.

Here are my three musts in this fascinating walled city:

Cultural capture: Visit an artisan shop to observe the old Damascene tradition of jewelry making.  Talented men and women embark in the art of inlaying different gold and silver into one another onto a darkly oxidized steel background.  The intricate patterns are made to resemble damask silk tapestries.

Touristy but fabulous: Visit the Catedral de Toledo and locate El Transparente, a magnificent skylight cut very high up into the wall behind an altar.  Another window is cut into the back of the altarpiece which allows shafts of sunlight to strike the tabernacle. Beautiful!

Art of the walk: Visit the parish church of Santo Tomé and see the large El Greco painting entitled The Burial of the Count Orgaz. See if you can find El Greco and his son, Jorge Manuel, who, it is presumed, were included in the painting.

Córdoba

The minute Jon and I crossed the stone foot bridge into this gorgeous walled city, Córdoba put out the welcome mat. Walking up the street we were greeted with a small parade of musicians playing drums. Each was wearing a red jacket and a helmet with a horse’s mane. I am not sure what the event commemorated (would love to know if anyone does!), but we started our exploration in a celebratory spirit. Another city with a rich and varied history of Christians, Jews, and Muslims, Córdoba offers many gems…touristy gems, but gems just the same.

Touristy Temptations: The Mezquita de Córdoba (Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba or the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption) – Upon entering this huge structure one is instantly taken with the terra cotta and yellow striped arches…not just their beauty, but the sheer number of them (over 850).  Nothing else…just open space and arched columns of jasper, onyx, marble and granite stone.   As you go deeper you will be surprised to find a full cathedral with intricate and ornate carvings, golden baroque embellishments, and Renaissance art.

According to local guides, the structure most likely started as a Roman temple…which was turned into a church when the Visigoths conquered Córdoba…which was made into a substantial mosque by a exiled Muslim prince…which was turned into a Roman Catholic cathedral. All of this in the span of around 500 years. After exploring its inside riches, spend time people watching under the orange trees in the Patio de los Naranjos (“Court of the Oranges”). The whole complex is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so it is a definite must-see.

Another example of architectural recycling is the Córdoba Synagogue. This building started as a synagogue, then after the Jews were expelled from the region in 1492, it served time as a hospital, a catholic church and now a museum.

Foodie Fun – I am very fond of gazpacho on a summer’s day, relishing in its cold crisp vegetable soupiness.  So when I saw white gazpacho on a menu in Córdoba, I was intrigued and tried it. Oh my…this version, believed to have ancient Moorish origins, is made from green grapes, almonds, and bread. I have tried, on a couple of occasions, to reproduce it in my own kitchen without much luck. I will need to return to its Spanish region to enjoy it again…and I plan to!

Seville

Ah Sevilla!  My tip to anyone visiting is  to WALK…look up, look down, look everywhere.  Seville is a city of colors and textures, tiles and flowers.  It seeks to engage you in its beauty. We ditched the tour group we were with and spent the day alone, exploring.

In anticipation of a day of physical exercise, we decided to start it right by getting massages.

Spa spectacular: If you are a massage/spa aficionado, and you are in the area, make your way to Spa Sevilla Wellness Center (I hope it is still there!).  Located within the Meliá Sevilla hotel (recommended for those who like a modern decor, as we do), this spa offered mediocre massages…but the water spa was ASTOUNDING.  The pool area was a journey of hot, cold, bubbles, sprays and everything water-wonderful.  It consisted of, in order, a designated walking path where our legs and feet were treated with alternating cold and warm sprays of water; a walk-in walk-out tub, where you literally walked down 5 steps to immerse yourself in the cool water before you continued forward up 5 steps…providing a brief introduction of what was to come;  two Jacuzzis – the first with warm water jets and the second with hot water jets; a brief cold shower; and a large pool with four distinct features of warm and cool bubbles and a huge “faucet” dousing you with water and then the huge “kitchen sprayer” removing any dead skin cell that could possibly be be left over! Ahhhhhhh. We did it twice!

Art of the Walk: Be sure to include as a part of your walk, a stroll through the Plaza de España and the Maria Luisa Park. You will not be disappointed.

In Wanderlust Andalucia Region of Spain Parte Dos, Jon and I explore Costa del Sol, Granada, and Ronda.

I would love to hear about your experiences in these wonderful locales. Please leave a comment, or a picture, or a travel tip.

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